Bagpipe lovers, if you’ve never heard of the Grandfather Mountain Highland Games and Gathering of Scottish Clans, then you’re in for a treat, for this is a clanfest that has pipes and drums in spades, and then some.
Set in a dramatic section of the Smoky Mountains just south of Boone and west of Blowing Rock, N.C., the site of this four-day event couldn’t be more spectacular or evocative of the Highlands, flora, fauna and weather included.
Although the games are held at the height of summer, this area of the Smokies is known for its changeable weather, and the wise visitor always carries an umbrella, for afternoon rains usually follow the golfers home, cool evenings are expected, and dense fogs offer none-too-subtle hints at how the “Smokies” got their name.
Held in Grandfather Meadow, ringed for the occasion by 170 red, blue, yellow and green striped tents, the colorful scene has as its backdrop the stunning deep blue peaks of Grandfather Mountain looming above at 5,946 feet.
The games are held beside and within a 440-yard oval track, since running foot races has always been the most traditional aspect of Highland Games, and this is one of the few in the United States to have its own track, says Donald MacDonald, one of the co-founders of the Grandfather Games and author of History of the Grandfather Mountain Highland Games.
If you have Scottish ancestry, or even if you’re merely an appreciative Sassenach (Gaelic for Saxon, or English person), the opening ceremonies, with the entry of the clans and the massing of the colors, sends chills up the spine and thrills to the heart.
This year’s games run July 10-13, and if you think you might want to go, start organizing your tickets and reservations now. Kellen Short, public relations specialist for the Grandfather Mountain Stewardship Foundation, said he didn’t believe there was a limit on ticket sales, but on-site camping opportunities fill up quickly, as do hotel accommodations in the surrounding areas.
The opening ceremonies — a sight to see (and hear) with hundreds of bagpipes and kilts — begin at dusk on July 10 with a torchlight ceremony in which representatives of each of the 100 clans and 16 societies announce their participation in the gathering.
This “raising of the clans” proclaims that they have come together to celebrate their heritage. And they come from all across America. Clans from Ohio who have participated in the past include Toledo’s Clan McCall Society of America and the Losantiville Highlanders representing the Caledonian Society of Cincinnati.
Prior to the torchlight ceremony, more than 700 people will run in a 5-mile footrace called “The Bear” that climbs 1,568 feet from the town of Linville to the summit of Grandfather Mountain. The next test of extreme endurance is the 45th running of the Grandfather Mountain Marathon on July 12.
Friday, Saturday and Sunday are filled with competition in heavyweight Scottish athletic events; a dance competition; bagpipe band parades; piping, drumming and harp competitions; sheep herding demonstrations by Scottish border collies; and concerts featuring a wide variety of Celtic music.
Drawn to this hive of activity are some of America’s top Scottish athletes, who clash in traditional events such as “Turning the Caber” and “Tossing the Sheaf.”
The first requires an athlete to flip a telephone-pole-sized tree trunk end-over-end, and the second challenges athletes to loft a 16-pound sack of hay over a crossbar more than 20 feet above the ground. Other ancient tests of strength challenging the brawny professionals are Highland wrestling, putting the stone, the hammer throw and various weight throws.
On Friday night, the Celtic Jam highlights traditional and contemporary Celtic music at MacRae Meadows, and on Saturday night the Celtic Rock Concert serves up encore performances from some of the higher-energy bands.
In addition to the activities at MacRae Meadows, there will be a Scottish Country Dance Gala at Lees-McRae College, 191 Main St. W., Banner Elk, on Friday night. The event begins at 8 p.m. and runs until midnight. Admission is $25 for dancers and $10 for spectators.
MacRae Meadows, high on the slopes of Grandfather Mountain, closely resembles Kintail in Scotland’s Wester Ross. Other similarities to the Highlands include the rugged terrain; rhododendrons and mountain ash (rowan trees) that grow in profusion; the Allegheny sand myrtle, which is a member of the heather family; thistles blooming in August; and the occasional ironically named “scotch mists” (don’t be fooled; they’re pea-soupers) that swirl through the gaps and around the mountain tops.
An open-air market is set up adjacent to the parade grounds with Gaelic and tartan gift items, while concessionaires sell Scottish meat pies to give visitors a taste of the Highlands (odd though, no mention of haggis). Tents are set up to help guests trace their Scottish roots and learn more about their heritage.
Daily adult tickets are $15 Thursday, $20 Friday, $30 Saturday and $15 Sunday. The tickets cover all activities in the meadows. Tickets are $5 each day for children ages 5-12, with children under 5 free. Tickets are available at the field with cash only.
Four-day tickets including a shuttle bus are available at www.gmhg.org. Adult four-day passes are $75, and children’s are $20.
Limited parking is available on-site Thursday and Friday on a first-come, first-served basis with overflow parking at shuttle lots in Linville.
Public parking is not available at the field on Saturday and Sunday. Shuttle service is provided between MacRae Meadows and satellite parking areas in Linville, Newland and Boone; fees vary depending on the distance.
For more information call 828-733-1333 or visit at www.gmhg.org. For lodging and other travel information, contact North Carolina High Country at 800-438-7500 or www.mountainsofnc.com.