Paula Deen is probably used to being pummeled by the food police about her cooking, but you’ve got to wonder what she really feels about son Bobby Deen’s new book, From Mama’s Table to Mine (Ballantine, $22), written with Melissa Clark.
The love taps begin with the book’s subtitle: “Everybody’s Favorite Comfort Foods at 350 Calories or Less” — and then there’s his introductory admission: “I love my Mama’s food, it truly is the best-tasting food on this planet. But, let’s face it. I can’t eat her rich food every day of my life.”
The son, host of Cooking Channel’s Not My Mama’s Meals, takes pains to show readers that his recipes are as tasty as those made by “Mama,” to whom the book is fondly dedicated, but without the fat and calories. He offers a “before” and “after” snapshot for each. The differences in calorie counts can be striking. I’m assuming many of the before recipes are based on Mama’s, though it’s not always clear. I just wish there was a way to offer both versions side by side for comparison.
The book offers tools for eating better, from a list of “Bobby’s Fantastic Fourteen” foods that he works into his diet, to a guide for stocking one’s kitchen with healthy foods, to five sample party menus to stay on the healthy-eating track. Each recipe also comes with a side note, usually on a health or nutrition-related theme.
Bobby Deen offers some appealing, and healthier, takes on comfort cooking that would make any mama proud.
— Bill Daley
Chicago Tribune
